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Development of the bra and the influence of Lycra
The open and front laced corset can be traced to 2000 BC and was worn by ancient Greek women. During the 1550s corsets were made from whale bone and steel rods and replaced later with cane and linen stays. Buckram (a heavy stiff interfacing type fabric) was also used to flatten the chest. For some 350 years from the mid 1500s, the corset became a dominant piece of underwear for women. Corsetry was essential to show off the women’s narrow waists. The heavy iron corset of the 17th century flattened rather than shaped and was later replaced by a metal and whalebone corset that emphasised the waist and full skirts. Well cut corsets, more often called stays until the 18th century, were made with boning. By the 1840s a back laced gusseted reinforced stitched corset of strong white twill cotton, using vertical rows of whalebone, shaped the body. Lacing later was replaced with boning and a metal hook system. 
After 1840 the corset was of a new style made from seven to thirteen individual pieces. The first elastic inserts in corsets appeared in 1885 and this was the beginning of revolutionising the corset with elastic or rubberized fabrics. Corsets were also steam moulded and later versions had hooks and flexible steel.
Steel replaced whale bone in the late 19th Century. T he Corset after 1907 became straighter in design and achieved a long slim silhouette with the use of steel. The corset started just above the waist and fitted well down the thighs. They often had elastic gusset inserts which aimed to increase comfort level. The camisole bra available in 1915 was made of a woven fabric and wrapped around the body giving support.
During World War One, the shortages of steel due to the needs of the war, impacted on corset design and by the 1930s the rubberized girdle and suspender belt were created. Bra fabric was mostly a cotton lace and net fabric. At about this time knitted fabric emerged and was seen as a viable alternative. The bra was now a separate item to the elasticized and lightly boned panty girdle or corselette. From the 1940s to the 1960s traditional corsetry was losing ground, this was because of the impact on resource supplies due to the Second World War and also the changing role of women. Styles began to shrink and the bra took on its own identity. Nylon fabric was revolutionising the bra at this time making the bra lighter, prettier and easier to wash. Lycra developed in 1959, began replacing rubber in corsetry by the 1960s. Rubber had many disadvantages such as damage through aging, hot water wash, sunlight and perspiration. Rubber also had a low recovery rate, low tensile strength and low dye acceptance. Lycra was seen as superior to rubber in strength and durability. Lycra’s other properties of low moisture regain, thermoplasticity and good dyeability, soon made Lycra a suitable replacement for rubber.
The use of Lycra in women’s bras has helped transform the heavy, laced and boned corset worn by women early last century to a lightweight, easy care, comfortable bra that is designed to meet the many needs of women. Bras have changed from undergarments that were once stiff, hard, boned, zipped and even hooked into softer garments that fit a wider variety of women with differing cup sizes. The use of Lycra has enabled designers to segment the market and produce many bra types for many different consumers and their end-uses, for example, the Coolmax sports bra, plunge bra, underwire bra, T-shirt bra, gel bra, padded bra, nursing bra, enhancer and prosthetic bra. D esigners can now combine the luxury of silk, cotton and lace with the added surety, comfort, fit and day-long support of Lycra. Lycra has made a significant impact on the intimate apparel market.
The design of the bra has also influenced mainstream and couture fashion. The bustier concept is often seen frequenting the catwalk. Akira Isogawa is one designer who has worked with the bustier concept. It's interesting to note that wearing a bustier as a top garment in the 21st century is nothing new. Madonna wore ice cream coned circular stitched cups on her Gaultier corset on stage in her 'Blonde Ambition' tour in 1990 reminiscent of bra designs of the 1950s.
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