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Historical design development: the influence of Lycra answers
Activity 1
1. Complete the following table on the historical development of the bra.
Year |
Textiles used |
Style adopted |
Social influence determining the design |
2000 BC |
Leather |
Open at the front. |
Exposed chest area acceptable. |
4th century |
Linen |
Chemise that looked like a tunic. It was gathered into a round or square neckline. Sometimes embroidered and finished with a frill. |
Functional and decorative item of clothing. Reflected status and class. |
1550 |
Whale bone and steel rods. |
Styled to be worn tightly. |
Wife of King Henri II of France banned ‘thick waists’ at court appearances. |
1820 |
Whalebone, steel and buckram. |
Corset mecanique developed, |
Shape the body without pulley system and use of servants. |
1867 |
Spring latch and snaps at the front. |
Corset. |
Prevented the corset opening accidentally. |
1875 and 1877 |
Wool fabric |
‘Under-flannel’ developed. |
A lighter version developed for women that eliminated the bones, eyelets, laces and pulleys. |
1893 |
Hooks and eyes |
Breast supporter: strapping with pockets. |
Lightweight support. |
1914 |
Woven fabric: cotton, ribbon and cord. |
Backless brassiere and the camisole bra. |
Lightweight, soft and support given to garments worn by socialites. |
1920 |
Cotton, silk |
Tight, chest flattening. |
Flat chest look created the boyish look of the 1920s. |
1930 |
Elastic including rubber, cotton lace and net. |
The bra began to support rather than flatten the chest. |
Gave shape to the body. Now worn against the skin. |
1941-1945 |
Manufacturers accessed synthetics due to shortages of cotton and steel. Rubber |
Smaller size in bra due to shortages of fabric. |
War led to shortages of cotton, rubber, silk and steel. |
1950s |
Synthetic fibres Nylon; parachute silk |
Strapless bra. |
Off-the-shoulder dresses created the need for strapless bras. |
From 1960s to now |
Lycra, microfibre, under wire, microfibre, Coolmax |
Bra designed separate to the girdle. Fashion to sports bra. |
Technological development of Lycra and social impact of WWII on status of women. |
2. Click on http://www.fashion-era.com/bras_and_girdles.htm 
and describe the early style camisole bra. How does the design of this bra tell us it was made of a woven fabric such as cotton drill? How effective do you think this bra would have been?
A flat two dimensional winged shape that positions over the head and the winged side shapes wrap around the midriff and are tied to secure in place. The fact that the design wraps and ties indicates that the design is made of a stable woven fabric. This bra would not hug the body and might also move from position making it less than comfortable.
3. Outline in your own words, the development of the bra as a piece of underwear highlighting the significant developments in textiles which have impacted upon and contributed to the development of the design.
Activity 2
1. Outline how World War II and the 1960s period impacted on the development of the modern bra.
Reference: http://www.fashion-era.com/bras_after_1950.htm
The modern bra has developed from the early version called the corset. A corset was made of a woven fabric and was shaped by using steel and whalebone to give shape. Lacing and steel hooks enabled the flat corset to be secured to the body. This undergarment was worn by women for many centuries. It was in the early 1900s that the corset divided into a brassiere and a panty girdle. This was primarily due to availability of resources and the beginning of attitudinal change for women. The first separate bra was still made from woven fabrics and it wrapped the body. Rubber inserts and metal hooks were later added and these impacted on the shape of the bra. From the 1960s knit fabrics and Lycra were introduced and immediately the bra was transformed from a piece of underwear that was heavy, lost its grip, became saggy, baggy and stretched to one that was lighter, more comfortable, easy to wash and dry and permeable.
2. Evaluate the impact Lycra has made to the performance of the bra.
Lycra has made a significant impact on the underwear sector of the fashion industry. Bras today are lighter, easier to wash and dry, more durable and perform better due to the use of Lycra. Many diverse consumer needs can be met including: sports bra, plunge bra, under wire bra, T-shirt bra, gel bra, padded bra, nursing bra, bra enhancer. Today the Lycra bra can even control moisture (Coolmax) and allow the bra to act as a shock absorber.
Activity 3
1. Outline in your own words, your understanding of how Lycra has influenced textiles and textile usage in the wider society.
Your response may include some of these points:
Women wanted glamour after being deprived of fabric and resources as a result of the war. Films out of Hollywood gave global images of glamorous dresses. Bra design went strapless to complement the new apparel designs, e.g. Dior. Early bra designs were soon unsuitable to wear under the new knit fabric dresses of the 1950s/60s. New bra designs gave women the freedom they wanted rather than being told the type of bra to wear, e.g. the T-shirt bra gave women a seamless no-bra look.
Lycra has helped to revolutionise the way we use fabrics. Lycra based fabrics have increased in popularity because of their ability to perform. As little as 2% Lycra can increase the performance and care of a textile product making then comfortable to wear because of their ability to move with the body and easy care. As a result of consumer confidence in the product and our active lifestyle we find Lycra in textiles ranging from underwear such as sports bras to fashion items such as T-shirts to athletic performance clothing such as swimwear. Lycra has applications in the medical field, e.g. compression stockings. Lycra has made a significant impact on textile usage in society and moved its usage from primarily underwear to outerwear and specialised textile end-uses.
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